The town of Raub, Malaysia, has found its golden ticket in the form of a spiky, pungent fruit: the durian. With its unique aroma, ranging from cabbage-like to sulfurous, the durian has earned a reputation as the "King of Fruits" among its fans, but it's also known for its divisive nature, banned in some public spaces due to its strong smell. Despite this, or perhaps because of it, the durian has become a coveted luxury item in China, where it's earned the nickname "Hermès of durians."
Raub, once a gold mining town, has transformed its economy with this buttery, bittersweet variety. In 2024, China imported a staggering $7 billion worth of durians, with over 90% of the world's exports now heading there. This has sparked a global durian rush, with towns like Raub at its heart.
"Even a small percentage of Chinese consumers is enough to sustain our business," says Chee Seng Wong, a durian exporter in Raub. He recalls how farmers once chopped down durian trees to make way for oil palms during an economic downturn, but now the trend has reversed.
The durian's popularity in China has grown exponentially. It's become an exotic gift among the affluent, a status symbol on social media, and a star ingredient in culinary creations like durian chicken hotpot and durian pizza. Thailand and Vietnam are the top suppliers, but Malaysia's premium varieties, like the Musang King, are quickly gaining market share.
While durians in Southeast Asia start at less than $2, luxe varieties like the Musang King can cost upwards of $100. Xu Xin, a 33-year-old durian seller from northeastern China, was instantly hooked after trying Malaysian durians. He's now on a mission to find the best durians to import back home.
The durian's success in China has had a profound impact on Raub. Farmers like Lu Yuee Thing, known as "Uncle Thing," have become millionaires. In his family business, sons help transport durians while daughters manage the finances. "Durian has contributed greatly to our economy," Uncle Thing says.
However, farming is not without its challenges. At 72, Uncle Thing wakes up at dawn to collect ripe durians from his hilly farm, a physically demanding task. He points out the Japanese pickup trucks he now uses for transportation, a sign of his success.
Once harvested, durians are sorted into grades, with the handsomest, Grade AA, destined for China. This success has not come without controversy. Food safety concerns have arisen over Thai durians, and in Vietnam, the shift to durian farming has impacted global coffee prices. In Raub, a turf war has erupted over illegally planted durian trees on state land.
China's insatiable appetite for durians has also led to diplomatic efforts. Beijing has signed numerous trade agreements, celebrating bilateral ties, and its investments in regional infrastructure, like the China-Laos Railway, facilitate the transport of durians. However, China's push for self-sufficiency in food, including durians, could impact countries like Malaysia. Hainan, China's island province, is making strides in durian cultivation, and its success could reduce China's reliance on imports.
"Hainan has already succeeded in its experiment... If they start importing less, our market will be affected," Uncle Thing says. While the impact is yet to be fully realized, the Musang King's reign may be facing a challenge as China pursues "durian freedom." Despite this, Raub remains confident in its product, believing Malaysian durians are still the best.
